A Religious Experience

I was not leaving Milan without seeing The Last Supper.  In making the most of our time here, I booked a full day tour of the city which included visiting Leonardo’s masterpiece and a tour of the Duomo which we only visited for Mass yesterday.  In addition, we were treated to the Sforza Castle and the San Mauricio al Monastero Maggiore which is a church attached to the most important convent of the Benedictines in Milan.  Charles pointed out a few secular items along the way, including a somewhat irreverent third finger raised in salute to the Stock Exchange and a huge colorful sculpture of a needle and thread, a presumed homage to the fashion and design capital of the world.

There is a new district in Milan, the Porta Nuova, begun in the late ‘90’s.  It is now considered Europe’s richest district within any city, housing several Fortune 500 companies and various fashion companies.  For me, the most interesting part of this neighborhood are the 2 apartment buildings known as the Vertical Forest.

We traveled by foot, by cable car and by underground which was another added experience.

Charles, our guide, is extremely knowledgeable and spoke fluent English, despite being a Frenchman living in Italy for 10 years now.  I so envy these multi lingual people.  We Americans can barely speak English.  Shame on us.  Charles is also quite funny which added color to our tour.

As we spent our 15 minutes with The Last Supper, I glanced around to see people wiping tears from their eyes.  I thought I was the only one!  Charles explained many of the particulars of this masterpiece prior to and after our viewing time and so the insight of this great painter is even more awe inspiring.  To see how DaVinci, a man of the 15th century, captured the essence of our Mass and the foreshadowing of the betrayal of Jesus with such insight, left me so moved.

For my Jewish family, notice the knot and table adorned with blu such as those embellishments on a Tallis....

Recognize her?  The inspiration for our Statue of Liberty adorning the Duomo.

A plaque to commemorate the hospital that Ernest Hemingway drove for during the war and then was a patient in.

We returned for dinner to what I know would be our favorite neighborhood restaurant if we were to spend more time here.  It was easy and good and inviting after such a long, hot day...although no where as hot as my dear Californians have been this past week.

We are ready to come home now but not looking forward to 9 hours from Milan to Newark with a 1 1/2 hour layover and then a 6 hour flight to LA.  Oh well, the price of living on the left coast.

Thank you to all of you who have read my blog.  I hope you have enjoyed traveling with us.  I love writing and planting bits of humor along the way.

It’s a Small World

Sadly, we had to bid adieu to Como this morning.  We were not going to schlep to the train again, yada yada so the concierge ordered a car for us.  In 45 minutes we were in Milan...so easy.

I had booked a Food Tour, something we like to do in various cities as it really gives a flavor for the local cuisine and the guides love to share stories of their food.  Serena greeted us as she rode up on her bicycle.  It was just Dom & I so the conversation flowed easy.  Of course, I asked where her family was from and she said Bari.  When I asked her what town in the province and she replied Altamura, we stopped in our tracks as Dom’s family is from that same town.  We visited his cousin who still lives there a few years ago when we did a hiking/walking tour of the Puglia region.  Serena  even knew of the patron saint of the town:  Santa Maria del Buoncamino.  Dom showed her a photo of the statue of the saint and told her how his grandfather and his friends brought the society dedicated to the saint to the US when they immigrated so many years ago.  Serena immediately texted her father to see if he knew cousin Francesco but he didn’t.   As I always say, ‘six degrees of separation’.

On our first stop at La Proscuitteria Serena brought us a large rectangle board filled with breads slathered in an olive spread, a Gorgonzola spread, prosciutto and other cured meats, sun dried tomatoes and green olives.  And, of course, wine.

Our next stop was to a very upscale chocolate shop, the only one the chocolatier has opened outside of Torino.  I chose a dark chocolate with pistachios; Dom a dark chocolate with hazelnuts.  We each also had clusters with various nuts.  A beautiful store with delicious treats.

On to the gelato shop the likes of which we had never seen.  Serena begged me not to put it out into social media for fear that they will get so popular that then many of these shops will open and they will be forced to then mass produce and the quality will tank.  So for now, it will just be our little secret.  We watched the young lady hand cut the peaches and the cantaloupes as she prepared to make the gelato.  The gelato is kept in special silver containers called Carapina.   They have tops on the containers so the gelato is not exposed like it is everywhere else.  And the flavors!  OMG!  like I have never seen....We each had 2 scoops.  I had Fior di Latte Menta e Basilico (mint and basil) and Pistacchio Siciliano.  Dom had Pesca (peach) and  Pulcinella which is fresh ricotta with dark chocolate and orange zest.  It was almost a religious experience!

Serena still had more to show us.  She wanted to share these tiny fried cheese balls which are covered in buckwheat.  I never would have ever known about them.

She left us outside of Eataly.  I still don’t get why there are Eataly’s in Italy but then I’m not their marketing director.  We actually visited the one in Bari and decided to breeze through this one.  They are like the Disneyland of food, wine, restaurants but for Italians who tend to shop at their local fruit and vegetable stores...well, I’m not so sure they patronize Eataly.

Off to LaScala where we toured the museum and then were allowed a balcony view of the opera house.  I would have loved to see an opera there but I’m kind of glad I didn’t buy tickets ahead as we were really bushed tonight.

We couldn’t resist doing the ultimate touristy thing though; having an Aperol (Prosecco, aperol and soda water with a slice of orange) at an outdoor cafe at the Duomo.  The only thing spoiling our little respite was we were surrounded by smokers.  What is wrong with people?  I wish them premature wrinkles around their mouth and no one who would kiss them.

It was nearing 5:30 so we decided to go to Mass at the Duomo which we were surprised to see was sparsely attended.

Our concierge recommended a local restaurant that we could walk to.  I’ve told you we love eating with the neighborhood people.  It was a fun place with a huge screen showing the Croatia-Russia World Cup Quarter Final match.  The food was abundant and good and so reasonable although I think you had to know someone to get the slices of watermelon at the end of the meal that I saw at select tables.

Tomorrow The Last Supper....

Is gelato a food group?

After a leisurely breakfast we sauntered off to the Duomo.....I know it seems that every church in Italy is beautiful and they are, but each church has its own character.  This one has an elaborate altar dedicated to the Assumption of the Blessed Mother with side pillars to mimic those that surround St. Peter’s altar at the Vatican.  The dome is breathtaking and photos are attached.  The one thing that gave me pause was the Crucified Christ.  We all picture Jesus in our own way but I don’t think we picture Christ with wooly hair and beard.  A little disconcerting to me....

After looking at the angle of the funicular, I decided terra firma or another ferry ride were good enough for me.  The views are all magnificent; the photos one better than the other.

Off to Cernobbio which is just 2 ferry stops away.  Jill, a colleague of Dom’s, was just here about a week ago and she recommended a lovely hat shop.  We found it immediately and just as quickly fell in love with the proprietors, a husband and wife who lived for about 3 years in the Beverly Hills area.  They have lived on the Lake now for 33 years.  She tried several hats on me, one nicer than the other.  I chose the one that Dom loved the most and I couldn’t be happier.

Funny thing, Dom showed them the photo Jill sent him of her wearing her hat and he immediately recognized his hat.  Sorry, Jill, it was just the hat he remembered.  He squealed, “this is my hat!”  They recommended a local restaurant for lunch which we thoroughly enjoyed.

We were determined to have an aperitif at the Villa d’Este but when we arrived we were told it was closed until Sunday for a private affair.  I kidded the expensively suited man at the gate that I was afraid it was just that we were riffraff and so not allowed in.  He laughed and invited us back.  No wonder we couldn’t get a reservation.

So we consoled ourselves with a gelato and sat under a shady arbor that lined the walkway to the ferry pier.  Dom has decreed that we can only have one gelato a day....of course, he did.  We see people eating their cones or cups beginning at 10am.  There are gelato shops everywhere; some right next door to each other.

I reflected as I relaxed in the shade, that the lake just seems to evoke a calmness.  The sun shining in different ways every hour; reflecting off the water; shading parts of the mountains or the homes on them.  One never gets tired of the beauty.

We had a reservation at a restaurant that the Toronto couple had heard was great.  They went last night and reported it was just fair.  Our concierge gave Dom a thumbs down when he mentioned this place and promptly recommended, of all places, a Sicilian restaurant which instantly brought back my most delicious memories.

Those of you who know me, know my motto is that every meal should begin with desert...lol...well, our antipasto course was like a dessert tonight.  We began by splitting a caprese salad with the largest, creamiest mozzarella I have ever had.  We each opted for the linguine with lobster and fresh tomatoes,  only to laugh when the claw shaped nutcrackers appeared.  Our efforts were definitely rewarded!  Sooooo good.

When the waiter showed us the dessert menu the memory of my gelato flew out of my mind.  I asked the restaurant owner if the cannoli was crisp.  He replied that his mamma Stella (which, of course is the name of the restaurant) makes them.  Dom inquired where in Sicily he was from.  When he said Cefalu, well, that was enough for us.  I am sending a photo of the most delicious, crispiest cannoli I have ever eaten.  What a way to end our stay in Como, with the lovely memory of an alfresco dinner with such delicious food, reminiscent of another favorite place of ours.

We are sad to leave Como, but excited to see Milan, a city, believe it or not, that Dominick has not been to in his work travels.

The Most Beautiful Lake in the World

That’s what they say about Lake Como, and after spending a day on it, I have to agree.  We bought a round trip day ticket on the ‘slow boat’ with the option of upgrading to the ‘fast boat’ which we thought we might take on our return trip.
We started chatting with another couple as we waited on the dock for the boat.  We sat with them on our 2 hour trip to Bellagio and thoroughly enjoyed the company of this couple from Toronto for the entire day.  Claudio and Patrizia are both of Italian descent and speak Italian.  It was fun to share this amazing day with others.
The eye candy of the lake is so beautiful and we delighted in village after village as we docked so people could come and go.

Bellagio is the biggest village with the most restaurants and shops.  After exploring the town we had lunch at a terrace restaurant perched over the lake.  It doesn’t get much better than this.

Our concierge recommended Varena and Menaggio as must see towns beyond Bellagio on the lake so  off we went.  We found them quaint and quiet.  Admittedly, we only spent about a half hour at each due to the ferry schedule.
The ‘fast boat’ was fully booked on the return so we had no choice but to take the ‘slow boat’ back to Como.  It was probably the most relaxing and beautiful 2 hours we’ve ever spent.

We rested a bit before dinner, then made our way to a non tourist restaurant again recommended by the concierge.  We ate outside in the inner courtyard of the restaurant.  I love being surrounded by ‘the locals’, eating the freshest food made with local ingredients.

I was further amused by a family; parents and 2 little boys.  The boys started to act up and the father turned to the older boy and grabbed his nose and twisted it.  Well, the kid must be proned to nose bleeds; the mom rushes him out with a napkin to his nose.  They return and the little boy has a tissue stuffed up his nose and an ice pack for his neck.  The family continues to have dinner and the dad and the boy are embracing.  In America, this would have beeen considered child abuse, but here, well, that boy won’t be misbehaving at a restaurant any time soon.

We strolled back accompanied by a lovely breeze, agreeing we had had the perfect day.  The one disappointment was that my invitation to the Clooney’s must have been lost in the mail.  No George or Amal sitings although our boat did stop at his lake side village of Urio.

Ah, Venezia.

Venice could be one of the most beautiful, romantic cities in the world....if it weren’t for the mobs of tourists and the oppressive heat.

We took the water bus to the San Marco stop and the designated meeting place for the Viator tour I had booked.  We were early which was fine.  We decided to walk along the Grand Canal for a bit.  Unfortunately, this was not an original idea.  Mamma Mia!  The hordes of tourists is such a turnoff.

We met up with our tour guide and realized we were joined by 2 men from our ship who had overheard us say our name is ‘Nuzzi’.  One of them worked at Fox and is now in the ‘business’ in 

Marin County.  He knew a John Nuzzi who worked at Disney and so asked if Dom was related.  He is not but used to get some of John’s emails, erroneously.  Thus started a conversation which was nice.

Also on our tour was a group of 8 from  New Jersey.  I swear, do some Americans really have to show off their ignorance? 

When asked by our guide if the women had shawls to cover their shoulders before entering the church, this one Ditz says, “May I ask a stupid question?  Why is this necessary?”  For the love of God??? 

I overheard her saying they are of Italian descent which usually means you have some religious background as well.  Whatever!

The clock in the Piazza is brilliant.  Not only do the ‘lions’ strike the bells on the hour, but the Roman numerals directly underneath reflect the exact time in hours and minutes.  Below that are the zodiac signs which change with the month.  

Of course, Cathedral of San Marco is breathtaking; boasting over 4,000 miles of tiles and mosaics, with gorgeous gold backgrounds.

After the tour of the church, we went on a walking tour mostly away from the maddening crowds; down little alleys and streets only a native would know.  

Eleanora, the guide, is beautiful even with the sling she wore because she dislocated her shoulder falling off a hammock!  Needless to say, she did not get much sympathy ...lol.

Here is the ultimate touristy thing to buy!

We had almost 3 hours between the conclusion of the walking tour and the second part of the tour, a boat ride through the Grand Canal.  After lunch at a non-tourist restaurant, I could see that Dom was beginning to fade.  He has been fighting ‘something ‘.  

We had a Baroque Evening on tap and I was worried about him not being able to enjoy it , so I decided to forego the boat ride and take a water taxi back to the ship so Dom could rest.  One of my better decisions, I must say.

He rested and I wrote yesterday’s blog.  After showers (we really needed them) and room service, we were on our way again, to an enchanting evening....a 9 piece orchestra, dressed in typical baroque style...huge hooped skirts for the ladies and the frilly shirts and waistcoats for the men....began the program.  The remainder of the program were selections from the most popular operas sung by a tenor, a baritone and a soprano whose voices were excellent and their expressions and acting just delightful.  A magical evening!

Since we were to be met at the pier by a driver in the morning, we decided we would wheel out our own luggage in the morning and avoid packing in the evening.

All in all, we loved the cruise and the itinerary.  My only disappointment is that there were no ‘sea days’ to just relax and enjoy the ship.  We are on to Lake Como where I hope to get the r&r I know my husband needs and I enjoy.

What, no greeting, Melania?

We were disappointed Melania Trump didn’t have a reception committee waiting for us in her homeland...lol.   We docked in Koper, Slovenia where we opted to just do a walking tour of the town.  Goron, our guide, was a bit spotty; at times, very knowledgeable; other times, he dropped the ball but I don’t really think we missed all that much.  Koper is a town of 50,000, officially bilingual - Slovene and Italian.  They love their wine so much that they do not export their best wines; they keep them for themselves.

Goron took us to the museum which he claimed was his first visit there also...hmmm. Every so often he opened a window of the museum to call to a family member; first his mama and then his brother.   Actually, he was quite comical.
He kept referring to Carpaccio and all I could think of was why was he talking about food????  Later I came to realize he was referring to the Venetian painter Vittore Carpaccio, who supposedly lived and worked in Koper in the 16th century.  There is a square named for him which is adjacent to the Taverna aka a former salt warehouse.

Salt was very valuable, as you can imagine, for preservation and seasoning.  The word salary is the derivative of salt...another factoid for you.  There is a lovely store in the town dedicated to all sorts of salts, soaps, bathing salts and seasoning salts.  If they weren’t so heavy I would have brought home a variety.

Tito Square claims to be one of the most beautiful Mediterranean squares on the North Adriatic.  I might agree with that assessment.  Today it houses the Mayor’s office, who, by the way, ran for president and lost...oh well...he’s still mayor; and the City Council meetings.

We stopped at a seaside restaurant where we were served wine and a piece of yogurt cake...interesting combination for a mid morning snack but ‘when in Rome’, as they say....

Returning to the square, we visited the church (of course).    Dom decided he wanted to climb the 204 steps up to the bell tower for the view.  I thought my knee would be angry at me so I opted to stay and pray for Dom instead.  He marveled at the view but today tells me that his quads are speaking to him.

Dinner was at Toscana, one of the specialty restaurants aboard the ship.  Our butler invited us to the evening entertainment as this was the evening when the entire staff is brought out and recognized.  They do put on excellent shows but we have been so tired with early morning call times that we hadn’t gone to any.  We were not disappointed.  We understand one of the young performers is a recent Fordham graduate who had training at the Alvin Alley school.  He did us alums proud.

On to Venezia........

Split, Croatia and the Necktie

Who knew that the Croats originated the necktie?  It seems that girlfriends and wives sent their young men and husbands off to war with a kerchief as a sign of love and mutual fidelity.  When the cavalry arrived outside Paris, the soldiers had these beautiful kerchiefs of silk and cotton tied on their chests, worn “a la Croate” (in the Croatian manner).   From this, the French made a new word “cravate” which, of course, became cravat and the rest is history.

From the port of Split we traveled to the town of Trogir where we were treated to a men’s a cappella group which is a tradition that is being resurrected.  They were very talented! And, of course, there was the obligatory cathedral tour.  It was all good though.

We next made a stop at an old mill where we were for the second day, treated to a prosciutto and cheese sandwich and a local wine (we opted to bottled water....it was still morning).  This sandwich stop was again accompanied by the entertainment of local musicians.  Like Kotor, Croatia prides itself on their prosciutto, olive oil and wine.
We did meet a mother and daughter couple from Florida.  They are a hoot.  They asked if I had done any shopping and I said I really hadn’t seen anything I was compelled to buy yet.  The mom, straight faced, said, “We buy shit”.  I thought I would fall off the wooden bench I was perched on!  The daughter said she brought an empty suitcase with her so she could bring home their purchases.  You know Dom would never allow that!

Back to the port city of Split where we entered the stone arch and were treated to the history of their ancient architecture.  This walled city is now a UNESCO site which is great for their economy and, of course, adds to the marketing for tourism.  Unfortunately, prior to this designation, a couple of modern buildings were erected along side the ruins making for a very incongruous site.  What I found even more offensive, however, was the laundry hanging outside of the windows, etc. of what looks like what is probably a totally uninhabitable top floor of a surrounding square.  Of course, I asked our tour guide how this was allowed...how someone could still be living there and how the laundry exhibition can be okay.  She responded that the UNESCO people are slowly coming in with their regulations and these things will have to be cleaned up or they will lose their designation.

Americans say to grab the brass ring, aka grab your opportunity when it's before you.  Here is the way they say it here:

This was the first time on our trip that I really felt the heat.  You will see a photo of me under my umbrella which I had handy since we had some rain in the morning.  Works rain or shine!

Not only was it Sunday, the day most people come in to town for a coffee and to people watch we were told;  a huge soccer match was taking place, so the port was teeming with people.  Many were coming back home off the ferry from surrounding islands where they go for the weekend or holiday.

As is the situation in Kotor, these people are working very hard to build up their economy since gaining their independence from the Soviets.  Tourism is the #1 industry and more cruise ships are coming every year for which they are grateful.