I had booked a Food Tour, something we like to do in various cities as it really gives a flavor for the local cuisine and the guides love to share stories of their food. Serena greeted us as she rode up on her bicycle. It was just Dom & I so the conversation flowed easy. Of course, I asked where her family was from and she said Bari. When I asked her what town in the province and she replied Altamura, we stopped in our tracks as Dom’s family is from that same town. We visited his cousin who still lives there a few years ago when we did a hiking/walking tour of the Puglia region. Serena even knew of the patron saint of the town: Santa Maria del Buoncamino. Dom showed her a photo of the statue of the saint and told her how his grandfather and his friends brought the society dedicated to the saint to the US when they immigrated so many years ago. Serena immediately texted her father to see if he knew cousin Francesco but he didn’t. As I always say, ‘six degrees of separation’.
On our first stop at La Proscuitteria Serena brought us a large rectangle board filled with breads slathered in an olive spread, a Gorgonzola spread, prosciutto and other cured meats, sun dried tomatoes and green olives. And, of course, wine.
Our next stop was to a very upscale chocolate shop, the only one the chocolatier has opened outside of Torino. I chose a dark chocolate with pistachios; Dom a dark chocolate with hazelnuts. We each also had clusters with various nuts. A beautiful store with delicious treats.
On to the gelato shop the likes of which we had never seen. Serena begged me not to put it out into social media for fear that they will get so popular that then many of these shops will open and they will be forced to then mass produce and the quality will tank. So for now, it will just be our little secret. We watched the young lady hand cut the peaches and the cantaloupes as she prepared to make the gelato. The gelato is kept in special silver containers called Carapina. They have tops on the containers so the gelato is not exposed like it is everywhere else. And the flavors! OMG! like I have never seen....We each had 2 scoops. I had Fior di Latte Menta e Basilico (mint and basil) and Pistacchio Siciliano. Dom had Pesca (peach) and Pulcinella which is fresh ricotta with dark chocolate and orange zest. It was almost a religious experience!
Serena still had more to show us. She wanted to share these tiny fried cheese balls which are covered in buckwheat. I never would have ever known about them.
She left us outside of Eataly. I still don’t get why there are Eataly’s in Italy but then I’m not their marketing director. We actually visited the one in Bari and decided to breeze through this one. They are like the Disneyland of food, wine, restaurants but for Italians who tend to shop at their local fruit and vegetable stores...well, I’m not so sure they patronize Eataly.
Off to LaScala where we toured the museum and then were allowed a balcony view of the opera house. I would have loved to see an opera there but I’m kind of glad I didn’t buy tickets ahead as we were really bushed tonight.
We couldn’t resist doing the ultimate touristy thing though; having an Aperol (Prosecco, aperol and soda water with a slice of orange) at an outdoor cafe at the Duomo. The only thing spoiling our little respite was we were surrounded by smokers. What is wrong with people? I wish them premature wrinkles around their mouth and no one who would kiss them.
It was nearing 5:30 so we decided to go to Mass at the Duomo which we were surprised to see was sparsely attended.
Our concierge recommended a local restaurant that we could walk to. I’ve told you we love eating with the neighborhood people. It was a fun place with a huge screen showing the Croatia-Russia World Cup Quarter Final match. The food was abundant and good and so reasonable although I think you had to know someone to get the slices of watermelon at the end of the meal that I saw at select tables.
Tomorrow The Last Supper....




Oh my goodness! The gelato sounds to die for! So glad you chose to omit the train. I am beginning to wonder if private transfers all the way around! Hell with the train. I agree it’s too difficult to schlep suitcases and such, even if there is a cost difference, not worth it! Unless... maybe we can hire a personal schlepper?
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